The final stop on my tour of Tipperary was Larkins Pub in Garrykennedy. With different directions from four different sources, I eventually made my way to the charming, 300-year-old pub located on the south side of Lough Derg. A quick look at its website suggests “it’s worth the drive out from Nenagh” and, despite the twists and turns, it absolutely is! The pub and restaurant offer authentic Irish food and drink, traditional music sessions, and lots of other activities at its beautiful lakeside setting. With an early opening at 10AM daily, you can enjoy everything from coffee and scones to a lovely plate of local cheeses or hearty seafood chowder. It’s no surprise that the Irish Restaurants Association named it “Gastro Pub of the Year in 2012.”

LARKINS ATLANTIC SEAFOOD CHOWDER

Serves 4

This fish chowder is made with both fresh and smoked fish and potatoes. Serve it with brown soda bread.

2 tbsp. olive oil

1 small onion, chopped

1/2 lb. potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2-in. cubes

2 cups vegetable stock

1 1/2 cups milk

Pinch cayenne pepper

1/2 lb. mixed fish fillets, such as salmon, haddock, or cod, cut into 3/4-1-in. pieces

1/4 lb. smoked haddock or salmon, cut into 3/4-in. pieces

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1 tbsp. chopped fresh chives

1 tbsp. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1. In a large saucepan over medium heat, heat the olive oil. Add the onion and cook for 3-5 minutes, or until soft but not browned.
2. Add the potatoes, stock, milk, and cayenne. Bring to a boil, and then reduce the heat to simmer and cook for 3-5 minutes, or until the potatoes are slightly tender. Add the fish and continue to cook for another 5-8 minutes, or until the fish is opaque and the potatoes are tender. Season with salt and pepper and stir in the chives and parsley.
3. To serve, ladle into bowls and serve immediately with brown bread.